Monday, October 25, 2010

Chamonix, the Enchanted (2009)

JANUARY 5, 2009 1:51AM


Rate: 17
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Aiguille du Midi & Mont Blanc from the village of Chamonix
Chamonix is a place where they love the dogs even more than they do in Paris.  I have never seen more dogs in one little place, ever, and never so many, so well behaved, and off leash.  Dogs were welcomed everywhere and nearly everyone had furry characters wandering about with them.
I felt right at home in Chamonix with Lulu and Phoebe.  At least when we were in the village.  I don't think I can say the same for the Aiguille du Midi
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the 2nd cable car in the white part between the rocky stuff
straight up, on the way to the tower where I will contemplate prayer
and goodwill for getting me off this thing safely
 To get there, you have to ride a cable car that looks an awful lot like a tiny tin can made for sardines.  About 50 humans can fit in one cable car and it seems unlikely from these photos that so many people are in one of them.
I was lucky enough to get the middle of the car and since I am pretty tall, I could see well enough as we shot up the mountain, and shut my eyes tightly.  Fortunately, The Geek lied to me and told me that it was merely a few minutes in one smooth ride to the top, otherwise I would never have even stepped into the tin can.
It was actually about 20 minutes and two cable car rides.  The first one dumps you at a midpoint that is plenty high, thank you.  But there are no services there (as in bathroom) and it is mightly cold because it is an open platform.  This is the end of June, and on the floor of Chamonix it is about 80 degrees.  Up here it is about 30 degrees.  At the next stop, which is pretty much straight up (as in rocket ship take-off up) it is about somewhere around 15 degrees with the wind chill.
At about 15,000 feet, it feels like you are on a spaceship without a space suit.  Your legs weigh about 800 pounds and walking takes an enormous effort even if you are a lightweight.  I managed to climb the stairs to that very first platform where there was a bathroom to dispatch the piss that was scared right out of me, and to replace it with a hot cup of tea.  There were tables at a window that hung over the edge and I spent most of my time up there pretending I was cool with this unnatural state of being this high up and not in an airplane.
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the arrow and circle: a cable car speck from
the upper platform - I am inside this building, sipping tea
and wondering how I will ever get off of here - Chamonix is down there
The Geek proceeded up to the next level from which these photos emerged.  It is an elevator that takes you even higher.   Most people don't last long up here, but there are die hards as you can see in the photos who go off on snowshoe expeditions (never to be seen again - kidding).  They are bigger when they start out and become specks in a matter of time.

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snow shoe group starting out (center)  although
they blend in with the rocks


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snow shoe popsicles on the glacier

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tiny snow shoe specks on the glacier

Lulu and Phoebe are posing in front of the Aiguille du Midi at the foot of Mont Blanc and looking like they do not believe we went all the way up there.  They had a spa day at the hotel and were bored to tears apparently.
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Aiguille du Midi & Mont Blanc from Chamonix
Later, we walked through the village and ate and drank and actually found people who treated us like royalty because we were from California, home to Governator Ahnold.   Arnold is well loved in that part of the world apparently.  That itself is an interesting post for another time.
I love Paris.  But I love Chamonix even more.  

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Comments

My mother and I went up to the top of Pilatus in Switzerland in June 1979. And yes, it was damn cold up there. Snowing, in fact. We had....a sweater apiece and an hour wait for the funnicular ride back down. With us on that climb was a family from Singapore who looked even less acclimated than we felt.

I think it was then I decided, for all the beauty of the Alpine scenery, that I'm really more of a "Beach person."

Thumbed, and love the pictures.
Wow, beautiful pictures and what a great trip that must have been. Heights are wonderful - I worked in a place like that once. Loved it!
Oh how absolutely wonderful!!! Lulu and Phoebe are royalty ... wherever they go :)
Thanks for sharing your amazing journey into the sky!!!
Beautiful pictures. A lot of the world's great extreme skiers live in Chamonix. The place has always seemed sort of magical to me, and I can't wait to visit. Especially now that I know how they are about dogs.
Good grief, I hear James Bond music in my head looking at these! Roger Moore swooshing down as the bad guys, just dropped from helicopters, begin shooting...
Beautiful! Also thought James Bond country---quick somebody get me something shaken not stirred!
Thanks everyone.

Roger -Yep. James Bond MUST live around there somewhere. There is another cable up there that magically wanders over to Italy and another mountain and it is very very cold and much smaller. Lots of skiers hop up there and ski down. Somehow.

Sandra - yes there are! Skis all over, even in June/July. That platform where L&P are slouching is right near the Olympic ski center from the 70's (?). There are dogs everywhere. Not so many little ones, mostly big dogs. But sweet dogs walking with people who care for them. No leashes.

Our hotel was so dog friendly that they ate in the fancy schmancy dining room with us.

Shiral - cold is sure an understatement, huh? The descent was ok for me. Going up, not so much.

UK - you never cease to amaze me! Where?

Thanks irritated mom. Only because they were from CA, home of Uncle Arnold.

Procopius - Roger Moore is perfect. Not that new guy!
I LOVE IT!

I am laughing so hard right now. I am a skier. Yep. Been there and done that. I have grin pasted ear to ear right now. One of the most memorable days of my life was skiing the Vallee Blanche.

Up the the Aiguille du Midi. Stop in that bar up there for an hour or so. Ski down that first coulloire (sp?). As you faced back down the telecabine, turn to the right about 90 degrees or little more. The slide space between the two stone spires. Yep. Its a long way down to Glacier du Geant, and then the Mer de Glace

It required the whole day for that single run down the Vallee Blanche. We did not arrive back in town until after dark. Steeps, deeps, powder, avalanches, sausages, wine, cheese, ropes, chocolate, beer, pitons, good friends forever and ice axes.

Over several ski seasons I spent 5 weeks in Chamonix.

It is truly a paradise.

And opening day on Le Grande Monte?

Dean
Dean, you are a brave brave man! Chamonix is fantastic, isn't it?!
I was fascinated by your interesting story and beautiful photos of Chamonix. One of my friends from college, who loves to ski, moved to Chamonix around 1990 from Manhattan and never came back, so I'd say it suited her tastes perfectly.
The Geek will tell you he had to drag me out of there back to Paris. Who has to get dragged back to Paris???

Something about Chamonix. And I don't ski.
Beautiful but so scary. Oh I envy you your travels. Great photos.
Did you see any Pitbulls over there? Nice pics. The dogs look pooped.
Rated & Cheers!
It is my most favorite place in the world. I left some of my father's ashes at the top of the Aiguille du Midi, as I do when I go to places that make my soul stop. I skied for days, danced all night, and cried in the car all the way back to Paris.

Beautiful photos.
I would love to go to Chamonix. I know of it because it is a mecca for the world's extreme skiers, adoptive home of the great and too-soon-gone Doug Coombs. I once saw a video of Doug zooming around the outskirts of the village on his skis, his infant son in a Gerrypack on his back. I have often wondered how that boy will grow up to see the world, having had the privilege of that spectacular perspective as an early formative experience.
Lucky dogs!

I saw snow there for the first time, when I was in my 20s. Never forgot that thrill. Thanks for the lovely scenes.
I love Chamonix! I nearly died of hypothermia there once! (Seriously. Tried to ski back down to the chalet and couldn't make it. Took us nine hours to slump down the mountain.)

But it's lovely, lovely lovely. So nice to see it again.
Presumably, you can ski down from the top...?
Wow ! Incredible and beautiful photos and what an amazing trip it must have been. Thank you for sharing this with us.
Texas, nope. No bitbulls, just tons of big dog mixed breeds, friendly, sweet and hairy. L&P were the smallest we saw. Therefore they made everyone giggle.

Fibro - that is very touching. A perfect place I agree. Felt like I was moon walking up there with no gravity.... Isn't the ride back to Paris long, and the lack of roadside real toilets is something. I would take the train next time. I bet the skiing is wonderful - I'm too chicken.

Sandra, I would imagine there are tons of people on skis in the winter there. The village was really hot when we were there in June, but the top, of course, was the middle of winter. It is worth every effort to get there and frankly if I could have stayed, I would.

Leigh - I can imagine! It was the middle of summer and we froze up there. It is daunting. But beautifully stunning.

dynomyte - yeah. somewhere. there were still skiers up there in June. There is also a tram at the top to Italy and more skiing.

Lea - thank you. I don't think Chamonix changes much so I bet you might find it almost the same. I really enjoyed the townspeople, the food, and was awed by how much they loved to talk with us once they realized that we were from CA, home to hero Arnold and the lovely (which is true) Maria.

Fireeyes24 - thank you!
I am so terrified of heights that looking at the photos/reading the descriptions scared me!
I would have stayed with the dogs. But thank you for such beautiful pictures and vivid descriptions of what seems like another world!
That is nothing short of amazing. Beautiful and amazing.

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