Monday, October 25, 2010

A Pastry Journey Through Paris (2009)

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MARCH 31, 2009 12:57AM
Rate: 19
 It does not take long to find pastry and bread in Paris.  On every street corner, in the Metro stations, everywhere, you will find Patisseries beckoning you in for a tasty morsel. Or two.
Every single day the muses and I would stroll around Paris and find some wonderful treats to share.  Many mornings we would rise and shine and stumble, literally, out front to this Brasserie and have morning croissants.  And they did indeed serve the two pups like they were paying customers.  Everyone knew their names,offered them chairs,  but never remembered mine.  As long as they brought plenty of croissants, I did not care.
morning cafe (um, decaf) on Rue Joubert
 Almost around the corner, across Rue Haussmann, near Printemp was a small Paul.  Paul is a bakery chain, and from an American's point of view, not half bad.  It was ordinary to many French, but it was just fine for us.  Eventually we found more sophisticated Patisseries, but in a pinch Paul will do!  You can find Paul in many Metro stations so that no French person running to catch a train will ever have to miss their morning croissant and cafe express.

early morning bread at Paul
Continuing to Place Madeleine, nearer to Place Concord, we will find both Fauchon and Laduree.  Fauchon was undergoing a huge renovation and the new store would have opened after we left.  I will see it one day.  But the temporary quarters were fine with me.  Lots of pastries, candies, cakes, and prepared foods downstairs and other fine grocery items upstairs.
treats at Fauchon
My favorite place in all of Paris for eating breakfast was Laduree near Place Concord.  I am pretty sure we sat next to Marg Helgenberger one morning, but I was trying to hard to not notice her, so I didn't ask.  But we did share our love for the food.  Those croissants were the best.
On another day we wandered down Rue Rivoli to Angelina where the hot chocolate will make you swoon and you will certainly need a transfusion because of the sugar rush.  That was a fun, historic place to visit, but I would not make a habit of it.  I'd much rather eat at Laduree.
Laduree candy treats

more macaroons, big macaroons
 On Sundays, never Saturday, it is a wonderful experience to wander Rue Rossier in the Jewish quarter.  You can find many ancient synagogues all over and Rossier has some fine places to eat.  Sacha Finkelsztajn has the best Jewish pastry anywhere.  It reminded me of my mother's pastry, which she learned how to make from her mother who came from Europe.  It was so familiar, the smells, the look and even the taste.   Like I had already tasted history, but didn't know it until I went to Paris.

Rue Rossier very early Sunday
Not far from Rossier, and near Victor Hugo's house in Place de Voges is Gerard Mulot, a wonderful small pastry shop.  We bought a large selection and carried them to a nearby park bench where we stopped for a piece or two and then took the remainder home.  Fortunately, it was a short ride on the metro!  
Can we have one of each si vous plais?


and yet more macaroons!

Even the lowly Monoprix had some pretty good pastry and bread.  And strolling through both Bon Marche and Lafayette Gourmet was always sure to yield something wonderful to eat.
There are a few books that I might read more carefully next time I spend time in Paris.  One is called Paris by Pastry, by Joyce Mitchell and the other is written by Dorie Greenspan called Paris Sweets, and takes you on a tour to her favorite pastry places.  
Pastry in Paris is not like anywhere else.  It is worth the effort to find as many places to sample pastry as you can stand!  
And last, McDoos is established all around Paris, sadly.  But this one, near our apartment, always amused me.  Notice the healthful carrots on display in the case?   Hundreds of them!  Of course they served traditional McDoo fare, nary a carrot to be found.   The place was usually packed at lunch time, sadly with Parisians eating American french fries with troubling gusto.   Alas, at least there is still pastry!  
those carrots are lonely!
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If anyone wonders why the French think ill of us McDonalds should be reason enough. The government should make them illegal before it is too late.

Your photos are nearly as good as being there, well not really but they are great photos. The pups are so good. I'm afraid my two would be rather like bulls in a china shop. Enthusiastic is a word I use often when describing them.

Bon Soir
Oh man... I want a croissant, a macaroon and a patisserie NOW! Love the first pic of Lulu and Phoebe looking like proper Parisienne chiens awaiting their croissants. But ALL the photos in this are mouthwatering. Crumbed, er, I mean Thumbed.
I'm going to be in Paris in June so this was unbelievably helpful. I'm travelling alone so thank you for the recommendations. I'll definitely try breakfast at Laduree. Thanks again!
It's so funny, I've never been to Paris but when I think of it, I think of sitting at a small cafe outside sipping Espresso and eating freshly made pastries...This was so on target with my vision.
Rated
Puppies and pastry in Paris = perfection. Paris is so civilized. I still remember the happy shock of finding a dog sitting next to me in a restaurant. I missed out on the macaroons, darn it.
ohhhhhhhhhhhhhh ... Gerard Mulot ... macaroons ...

::sigh::

Thank you, my sweet, for this ... um ... sweet ... walk down the streets of lovely Paris ~ I feel like I've been there ... except I'm still hungry!!!

There is nothing like a REAL croissant ... damn ~ it will take weeks to get the notion of wanting one out of my head!!!
One of the charming things that I love about Paris is their cavalier attitude regarding how food is displayed vs the American way. Just looking at the baguettes in the second pic where they are laid bare is almost a sacrilege in my area. It looks like someone sent in a hazmat team to protect the food. I think the french celebrates food as a nourishment of our bodies and I think they focus more on putting healthy ingredients in the food in the first place. Something we could take a lesson from.

Oh, I loved monoprix....we got most of our food there....and their pastries looked a lot like Gerard Mulot's. Great photo essay, L&P! Rated
Way to go, Cover Girl ~
xoxo
Paradise of macarons: Fauchon.
Thanks for a little Paris today!

On my one trip to Paris, I discovered exquisite pastries in little open-to-the street shops along Rue de Rivoli. These were the best things I've ever eaten and I didn't even get to the well-known pastry shops.
Ablonde - The French enjoy the lively pups too. L&P were just interesting to them because they looked like bulldogs Francais, but were not. And yes, McDoos is blight. Ruining their health too.

Shiral, it is all good. Those piggies had croissants almost every day!

Natalie - If you love pastry, get those two books and look for some of those places. You won't be disappointed. And Laduree near Place Concord is wonderful.

Blue - looked exactly like that!

Mumbletypeg - you must go get some! macaroons are the best. no gluten, great flavors and every one of them interesting. I was happy seeing dogs everywhere too!

1IM - want to go to Paris with me?

onecorgilover - that is a cute pupper in your avatar. yes, the displays alone were worthy of attention. Food is just displayed so one can make choices and see and smell everything. And almost touch it, and bread you can touch. I loved the Monoprix too.

Stellaa - I love macaroons too, and I love Fauchon. Can't wait to see the new store.

Steve - you won't be disappointed, and you won't even gain weight wandering on foot from place to place.
JK - the candied fruit was beautiful. I was more entranced by the pastries. Those little restaurants that offer a million courses and wine for next to nothing were gems. We found lots of those too. Food is sure a different culture there for sure.

Suzn - I wandered up and down Rivoli too and yes, those little shops are amazing. One of them had the best tiny strawberry tarts ever.
I never thought I'd hear myself say this, but... I am jealous of two dogs.
hehehe, me too Rob. they got way better treatment than we did, in Paris, in France and even on the air trip itself. Someone with four paws got a blanket before I did..... Not to mention wait service - nothing like the dogs getting their croissants first.
fabulous! if you ever tire of macaroons and croissants, try these:
http://chocolateandzucchini.com/archives/2005/10/caneles.php
bstrangely - I do believe I started to drool reading that. Did I miss those in Paris?
oh la la, food in Paris is divine and the pastries-- tres bon!
hehehe, me too Rob. they got way better treatment than we did, in Paris, in France and even on the air trip itself.

In that case, in my next life, I want to come back as a Parisian's beloved dog.

Onecorgilover, I second L and P's admiration of your Avatar dog. =o) Got a soft spot in my heart for corgis myself.
I'm hungry. Good work.
What Rob St. Amant said. I am SO behind touring any city via pastry. Especially Paris.
Oh, and by the way, I want to hug and kiss the two dogs I'm jealous of.

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